Pulau Ubin's Heritage Conservation, A Shared Responsibility

Hi all!

Second Minister for National Development, Mr Desmond Lee, together with former and current Ubin residents, NParks staff and FUN members during Pesta Raya@Ubin 2019. Photo courtesy of NParks.

In today's post, I would like to share on the conservation efforts of Pulau Ubin, more particularly towards its heritage.

Pulau Ubin as we all know is a haven for recreation, leisure and biodiversity to many Singaporeans and visitors from all over the world. It is very easy to overlook the idea that Pulau Ubin was but a thriving community, what more with the rapid re-forestation in the former kampungs giving passersby the illusion that Ubin had always been a no man's land. It is only but a sliver of what form of kampungs they find left that people would chance upon the heritage and stories that lie behind them.

On the island, you may find various groups and individuals from all walks of life sharing their interests and stakes here - forming a network known as the "Friends of Ubin Network (FUN)" where these passionate people get to work closely with the Ministry of National Development (MND) and National Parks Board (NParks), the island's central managing agency, to promote and celebrate the things that make Pulau Ubin special. I have also since become a member of FUN back in August 2018, following my findings of my late grandparents' kampung house earlier that year. (You may read up more about my "inauguration" here!)

An initiative formed during the establishment of FUN back in 2014 is "The Ubin Project". The project, according to the MND, aims to "preserve the island’s rustic charm, natural environment, biodiversity and heritage". In doing so, it hopes to "maintain the island as a unique sanctuary that can continue to be enjoyed by Singaporeans for generations to come." Happy to say, a few notable projects that circle around the preservation of the island's heritage have been carried out over the past few years by members of FUN.

One example would be that of the refurbishing of Ah Ma Drink Stall along Jalan Jelutong. A famous hot spot for kayakers and anglers at the Jelutong River as well as cyclists and trekkers en route to the Ketam Mountain Bike Park and Bukit Puaka, the humble drink stall was iconic in its own charm. Ran by Madam Lye Huat Soh (Ah Ma) and daughter, Ivy, they would often be greeted with swarms of people on the weekends when their drink stall is opened. However, Ah Ma Drink Stall was mostly remembered fondly by passers-by during high tide and spring tides as the drink stall would be partially submerged. In fact, there were many photographs taken where kayakers are seen paddling around the stall to get a quick refreshing drink from the stall!

Photo courtesy of Kayakasia

Over time, however, the drink stall became structurally unsound and the soil that it was built upon back in the 1990s, by Ah Ma's late husband, Mr Choo Lai Huat and son-in-law, had started to erode.

In June 2017, site visits and surveys were conducted by students from the NUS Department of Architecture and other FUN members such as the Singapore Heritage Society (SHS) and Sea Angel, played their part in offering their assistance and expertise to help refurbish the drink stall. In quick summary, over the span of the next few months, construction efforts backed up by funding from NParks began and the new Ah Ma Drink Stall was reopened for business on September 23rd, 2018, graced with the presence of Second Minister for National Development, Mr Desmond Lee.

NUS students working on the reconstruction of Ah Ma Drink Stall. Photo courtesy of NUS News.

The NUS Architecture students, led by Prof Tan Beng Kiang (fourth from left, second row) and Ivy and Ah Ma in front of their newly refurbished drink stall. Photo courtesy of Prof Tan Beng Kiang.

Among some notable new features include a raised foundation, a much bigger seating space and a heritage wall to showcase the students' and stakeholders' efforts and the history behind Ah Ma Drink Stall. You may read up more about the media coverage of the entire reconstruction project in this Mothership.sg article written by Zheng Zhangxin.

Madam Lye Huat Soh, and daughter Ivy Choo of Ah Ma Drink Stall. Photo courtesy of Roots.sg

Another example of a more recent accomplishment by FUN would be the refurbishing of the Pulau Ubin Taxi Stand.

Before

After

In April 2019, students from Ngee Ann Polytechnic who were pursuing a Diploma in Sustainable Urban Design and Engineering (Architecture Specialisation) have engaged and worked closely with residents and NParks as part of their community-engagement module. One group of students' ideas involved the refurbishment of the Pulau Ubin Taxi Stand.

The students have identified that the taxi stand was in need of new shelter and comfort, having observed and pointed out by the drivers on the leaking roof, termite-infested pillars and absence of screens to shelter them from rain and shine. The students planned on resolving these issues. After follow-up consultations with NParks in the months that followed and a presentation to Mr Desmond Lee during Ubin Day 2019, the humble project was given the green light and another refurbishing project was scheduled. On December 27th, 2019, the students spanned the entire day with the help of volunteers in giving the taxi stand a new breath of life.

The students installing the new noticeboard for the taxi stand.

One of the new features include a brand new taxi stand sign - following the suggestions made by the drivers to include the word "van" in it. "Hopefully, the word taxi van will finally end the confusion people face when we tell them that our vans are our taxis," joked Cik Azman, Pulau Ubin's only Malay taxi van driver.

Cik Azman and I holding up the new signboard that had been prepared by the students according to the drivers' wishes. Photo courtesy of Raja

Other new additions to the taxi stand include transparent PVC monsoon blinds to shield the drivers from rain and shine while still enjoying the view of the beach behind them, a new noticeboard containing a bigger blackboard for the drivers to plan out their rosters, a corkboard for them to hang their notes and calendar and a panel dedicated to "lost-and-found" items that they have found left behind in their taxi vans at the end of their trips. A new zinc roof was installed to replace the leaking plywood and termite-infested roof, too.

Students were busy assembling the noticeboard, applying a new coating on the wooden pillars and creating the new taxi van service sign along the road.

Although seen as much minor or simpler a restoration project as compared to the Ah Ma Drink Stall, the kampung spirit and dedication put up by the students and volunteers is still commendable and should be treated with similar fanfare nonetheless. It was because of these students' hard work that the Pulau Ubin Taxi Stand was given a new facelift and the taxi van drivers can now finally rest comfortably and happily as they wait for potential passengers to bring around in their unique taxi vans. You can view more photos of the refurbishment on WUJ's Facebook photo album here.

Students and volunteers, together with the NParks Pulau Ubin Community Liaison Team, posing for a picture as the roof goes through its final finishing touches. Photo courtesy of Raja

The examples above are just two of many wonders that can be achieved when stakeholders work closely in contributing back to the community by involving and revolving around the residents. Up next, I'll be sharing examples of how the residents themselves are constantly playing their part in conserving their island's heritage in whatever role they play.

Among one of many coffeeshops in Pekan Ubin is Sin Lam Huat Coffee Shop. This double-storey eatery is a favourite for many visitors on the island, known for their generous portions of homemade-cooked food and coffee. Sisters Madam Goh Xin Eng and Madam Goh Guat Lai run the stall, taking over from their late parents who picked up cooking skills while in Singapore after migrating here from Hainan, China and planting their roots here on Pulau Ubin in the 1950s.

However, one of the more notable features of the coffeeshop is its walls of photographs depicting life on the island in its yesteryears. Contributed by various residents, neighbours and friends, the Goh family have put it upon themselves to put them and their own family photos on display in their stall as a form of historical gallery. In this way, many visitors get to chance themselves upon the nostalgia so fondly cherished by the residents; both former and current.

The Goh sisters looking back at family photos and other photos contributed by the residents in their coffee shop. Photo courtesy of ST Chong Jun Liang.

On Ubin Day 2018, many visitors witnessed the launch of a new book called "Pulau Ubin - Our Heart and Soul", first published in Chinese and then later published again in English in 2019. The book was the hard work and labour of various Chinese former residents who worked together in collating stories, memories and pictures and compiled them together into a book. This book is very insightful and eye-opening to those who are keen in finding out a lot more about the history and way of life of the Ubin community, however, you may not be able to find a lot of information regarding the island's Malay community in it. You may find out more about this book and its launch in this Straits Times (premium) article here.

Launch of the "Pulau Ubin - Our Heart and Soul Book 1" during Ubin Day 2018. Photo courtesy of 2M Desmond Lee's Facebook post.

In Kampong Sungei Durian, Cik Kamariah Abdullah, 60, also plays her part in bringing life to Ubin's remaining Malay kampung through her cooking classes. Together with her sister Cik Samsiah Abdullah, they conduct private cooking classes for visitors and participants to learn about traditional Malay cooking in a kampung environment. The classes would also often involve participants roaming around their garden and the entire kampung where the sisters would share with them the different type of vegetables, herbs and plants that make up for traditional Malay cuisine.

Participants get to learn how to make traditional Malay kampung cuisine such as Nasi Kerabu, sambal belacan tumis, butter prawns and ice kachang. Photo courtesy of Malay Heritage Centre.

Certain dishes taught in these classes include a one-of-a-kind sambal belacan tumis (honestly still the best I've tasted thus far, sorry Mak hehe), Nasi Kerabu and Ice Kachangs. Participants would also get the chance to taste tea made with kaffir lime leaves, a taste you would never be able to find in your local or international bubble tea shops. Having the classes conducted in the very premises of her 120-year old kampung house really helps to promote the kampung environment and way of life in the best way possible.

Just next door lies Warung Pak Ahmad or Pak Ahmad's Drink Stall. Ran by Pak Ahmad Kassim, 84, the drink stall offers fresh coconuts and cold drinks nearly every day of the week to thirsty travellers who are looking to find a pit stop on their way to and from the Chek Jawa Wetland Reserve. His son, Khairuddin Ahmad, would sometimes return on the weekends to lend a helping hand to his father. Pak Ahmad is also my late grandfather's close friend and neighbour back in Kampung Surau before he moved to Kampung Sungei Durian, where he still resides today.

Pak Ahmad, resting on his chair in the serambi of his home as he waits patiently for customers. Photo courtesy of Jeffrey Cheng.

Pak Ahmad is also a World War II survivor and his tales about the time of the Japanese Occupation had even been featured in the National Museum of Singapore a few years back. Apart from this, Pak Ahmad also opens up his kampung house and drink stall to educators and schools to organise cultural learning workshops there. At times, there would be a crowd of students learning how to perform the dikir barat, make some batik paintings and learn how to cook Roti Kirai/ Jala all within the vicinity of his compound.

Pak Ahmad is also among the last few - if not only - Malay villagers who garner knowledge of traditional vernacular architecture, the unique method in which Malay traditional wooden houses are built upon. In fact, it was treated with that much urgency for these skills to be documented that Associate Professor Dr Imran Tajudeen from the NUS Department of Architecture, also a FUN member, sought it to be crucial for the kampung houses on Pulau Ubin to be conserved at all costs, citing that the methods of traditional vernacular architecture used in Singapore differ to those used in neighbouring Malaysia and Indonesia and need to be studied deeper.

Associate Prof Dr Imran Tajudeen with his students during their symposium "Pulau Ubin Lives: Houses, Residents, History and Heritage" at the National Library Building in April 2018.

It is through such initiatives by Cik Kamariah and Pak Ahmad that the Malay kampung had remained relevant even throughout these years. It was also as recent as January 2019 where I organised the monthly WUJ Kampung Clean-Up to help strengthen and contribute to the relevance and significance of the Malay kampung culture and community to Singaporeans and visitors all-over, as an homage from one descendant of the Ubin community to the other. God Willing, I hope my contributions prove fruitful and positive for them in the long term.

WUJ Kampung Clean-Up Dec '19 group photo with Cik Kamariah (far-right in cast) in front of her century-old kampung house.

Also very recently, NParks Pulau Ubin formed a community liaison team, which to my understanding is the only branch within the board to have such a dedicated department. This new team comprises of experienced and dedicated civil servants who are actively engaged with the residents to provide an enhanced service to cater to the needs of residents such as concerns regarding their Temporary Occupational Licence (TOL), human-wildlife conflicts, water-rationing during dry spells, leaking roofs and structurally unsound structures, etc.

To add on to that last point above, in a Straits Times (premium) article in November 2019, it was also highlighted that NParks has taken an important first step in conserving the rustic charm and cultural heritage of the island through the restoration of seven kampung houses and a coffee shop, including Cik Kamariah's and the Goh sisters' Sin Lam Huat Coffee Shop mentioned earlier. Although heavily influenced by FUN, this can also be considered as the government's direct involvement and support to play their part as well.

House No. 42 (formerly a clinic) and Sin Lam Huat Coffee Shop are closed for restorations.

By now, I have shared with you three particular groups of people who play a role in the conservation of Pulau Ubin's cultural heritage: the stakeholders, the residents and the government. However, you might see that everything the stakeholders and government does is always in the interests and in support of Ubin's residents; and rightfully so because who else knows Ubin better than the very "natives" of the island themselves?

The very people who have grown up on Ubin have vast knowledge and understanding that we "city-folk" often overlook or even look down upon. Even for me, who could only learn and share so much about my late grandparents' island home where they planted their roots, I could never compare to the rich archives stored away in my mom's memories who've spent the first 30 years of her life there - what more to the other residents who are still lucky enough to call Ubin home in this day and age.

Both former and current Ubin residents are custodians of their island's heritage and they play a crucial role in promoting and conserving it. However, there is only so much a dwindling and ageing population can do; which is why the other groups such as stakeholders and the government play an equally important role.

When done whole-heartedly, responsibly and in a civilised manner set with the right intentions, Pulau Ubin's heritage can be widely saved and promoted. Pulau Ubin had already been well known for its recreational spaces and rich diverse biodiversity with all its beautiful flora and fauna, what say we do the same for the island's culture, community and heritage?

Our kampungs had always been an integral part of our nation-building and identity and we always take pride for our "kampung spirit", so let's all share a responsibility in keeping Singapore's last remaining offshore kampung alive and celebrated for many generations to come.

Which reminds me that there is also another important group of people to add onto the list - and that is you!

And the first thing that you can do, is to come and visit Pulau Ubin and experience it for yourself!

May Pulau Ubin thrive again, with its people in its heart.